Discussion:
Splitting maul handle is loose - how to snug it up??
(too old to reply)
davefr
2004-09-18 14:42:15 UTC
Permalink
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!

Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.

How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?

I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Ray Drouillard
2004-09-18 15:45:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
You might want to just replace the handle. It costs a few bucks, but
the damage caused by a flying six pound piece of iron is probably
greater (I'm assuming here that you know better than to swing the thing
when someone is in front of or behind you).

I have heard that soaking the head in water will swell the wood back up.
I guess diesel fuel would work, too. That would reduce problems with
rust, and it won't dry out.

Being a DIY type of guy (who wants to go to the store and buy a
handle?), I would probably drive a couple more wedges -- if the handle
is otherwise in good shape.


Ray
Graybyrd
2004-09-18 17:08:32 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ray Drouillard
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
You might want to just replace the handle. It costs a few bucks, but
the damage caused by a flying six pound piece of iron is probably
greater (I'm assuming here that you know better than to swing the thing
when someone is in front of or behind you).
I have heard that soaking the head in water will swell the wood back up.
I guess diesel fuel would work, too. That would reduce problems with
rust, and it won't dry out.
Being a DIY type of guy (who wants to go to the store and buy a
handle?), I would probably drive a couple more wedges -- if the handle
is otherwise in good shape.
Ray
Rewedge .. using wooden wedges. It was a common chore in the "old days."
The small metal wedges were driven in crosswise to the wooden wedges to
lock the wooden wedges in and to expand the handle in the long dimension
of the eye.

I've never seen one soaked in oil. Possibly not a good idea. If I felt
the joint needed sealing, I'd probably use mineral oil to resist
moisture changes. Expoxy or other inflexible gunks are a bad idea. They
will just crumble under shock and expansion/contraction and will fail.

Gray
--
Reply to: allen|at|graybyrd|dot|com

"Consider that the worst of qualities and most odious of attributes, which is
the foundation of all evil, is lying. No worse or more blameworthy quality than
this can be imagined to exist; it is the destroyer of all human perfections and
the cause of innumerable vices."
Don Bruder
2004-09-18 16:02:50 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Re-wedge the beast. The wood is, as you say, drying and shrinking. It's
normal for at least SOME slop to develop, but a quarter inch is beyond
what I'd call "some".
--
Don Bruder - ***@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.
Harry K
2004-09-19 02:09:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Re-wedge the beast. The wood is, as you say, drying and shrinking. It's
normal for at least SOME slop to develop, but a quarter inch is beyond
what I'd call "some".
BTDT many times over the years and it is waiting to be done again.
When a ax, sledge, mall, whatever handle loosens up it is usually a
sign that it is on its last legs. The immediate solution (which I
use) is to tighten the existing wedge and maybe add a new one or two
and then soak overnight in water. Keep in mind that is only a
temporary solution, i.e., you can usually get another season of use
out of it, but a new handle is in the future. I just saw yesterday
that my splitting maul handle now has a weakness sideways, new handle
coming up this winter.

Harry K
Ray Drouillard
2004-09-19 03:12:33 UTC
Permalink
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Re-wedge the beast. The wood is, as you say, drying and shrinking. It's
normal for at least SOME slop to develop, but a quarter inch is beyond
what I'd call "some".
BTDT many times over the years and it is waiting to be done again.
When a ax, sledge, mall, whatever handle loosens up it is usually a
sign that it is on its last legs. The immediate solution (which I
use) is to tighten the existing wedge and maybe add a new one or two
and then soak overnight in water. Keep in mind that is only a
temporary solution, i.e., you can usually get another season of use
out of it, but a new handle is in the future. I just saw yesterday
that my splitting maul handle now has a weakness sideways, new handle
coming up this winter.
Harry K
My wife bought me a really nice 3 1/2 pound axe with a yellow plastic
coated fiberglass (I think) handle. Now *that* is a nice axe. I don't
expect to ever have to install a new handle.

On the other hand, we bought a maul head at a garage sale a couple
months back. Just today, we got a hickory handle for it. The handle
cost more than the maul head. Tomorrow, I'm going to buff the maul head
with a wire wheel, paint it, and install it.

I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.


Ray Drouillard
Graybyrd
2004-09-19 05:29:33 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up.
There's
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge
the
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I
just
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the
head
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the
new
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
Post by davefr
crap from China.
Re-wedge the beast. The wood is, as you say, drying and shrinking.
It's
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
normal for at least SOME slop to develop, but a quarter inch is
beyond
Post by Harry K
Post by Don Bruder
what I'd call "some".
BTDT many times over the years and it is waiting to be done again.
When a ax, sledge, mall, whatever handle loosens up it is usually a
sign that it is on its last legs. The immediate solution (which I
use) is to tighten the existing wedge and maybe add a new one or two
and then soak overnight in water. Keep in mind that is only a
temporary solution, i.e., you can usually get another season of use
out of it, but a new handle is in the future. I just saw yesterday
that my splitting maul handle now has a weakness sideways, new handle
coming up this winter.
Harry K
My wife bought me a really nice 3 1/2 pound axe with a yellow plastic
coated fiberglass (I think) handle. Now *that* is a nice axe. I don't
expect to ever have to install a new handle.
On the other hand, we bought a maul head at a garage sale a couple
months back. Just today, we got a hickory handle for it. The handle
cost more than the maul head. Tomorrow, I'm going to buff the maul head
with a wire wheel, paint it, and install it.
I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.
Ray Drouillard
In years past, I've seen everything from tarred friction tape to a
section of old rubber-lined firehose tacked or taped to the handle just
under the head. I'm partial to leather from an old boot top, trimmed to
meet at the back of the handle and tacked in place, and then wrapped
with a double layer of plastic electrical tape. After a season of use,
the tape will look pretty ratty but the leather guard underneath should
be intact.

Gray
--
Reply to: allen|at|graybyrd|dot|com

"Consider that the worst of qualities and most odious of attributes, which is
the foundation of all evil, is lying. No worse or more blameworthy quality than
this can be imagined to exist; it is the destroyer of all human perfections and
the cause of innumerable vices."
Harry K
2004-09-19 14:26:56 UTC
Permalink
<snip>
Post by Graybyrd
Post by Ray Drouillard
My wife bought me a really nice 3 1/2 pound axe with a yellow plastic
coated fiberglass (I think) handle. Now *that* is a nice axe. I don't
expect to ever have to install a new handle.
On the other hand, we bought a maul head at a garage sale a couple
months back. Just today, we got a hickory handle for it. The handle
cost more than the maul head. Tomorrow, I'm going to buff the maul head
with a wire wheel, paint it, and install it.
I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.
Ray Drouillard
In years past, I've seen everything from tarred friction tape to a
section of old rubber-lined firehose tacked or taped to the handle just
under the head. I'm partial to leather from an old boot top, trimmed to
meet at the back of the handle and tacked in place, and then wrapped
with a double layer of plastic electrical tape. After a season of use,
the tape will look pretty ratty but the leather guard underneath should
be intact.
Gray
I have seen boots specially made for just that purpose. Never used one myself.

Harry K
davefr
2004-09-19 15:02:32 UTC
Permalink
On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 23:12:33 -0400, "Ray Drouillard"
<***@comcast.net> wrote:

Take some 17 guage or smaller steel wire and wind in around the handle
from the head to about 6" below the head. Now paint the wire wrap
with epoxy. Once the epoxy is cured wrap it with a couple layers of
friction tape.
Post by Ray Drouillard
I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any suggestions?
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.
Ray Drouillard
Ray Drouillard
2004-09-19 21:13:02 UTC
Permalink
That sounds like just the ticket. I have some aluminum electric fence
wire, but it would probably be too weak.

Why does it have to be #17 or smaller? It seems to me that coat hanger
wire would work.


Ray
Post by davefr
On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 23:12:33 -0400, "Ray Drouillard"
Take some 17 guage or smaller steel wire and wind in around the handle
from the head to about 6" below the head. Now paint the wire wrap
with epoxy. Once the epoxy is cured wrap it with a couple layers of
friction tape.
Post by Ray Drouillard
I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any
suggestions?
Post by davefr
Post by Ray Drouillard
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.
Ray Drouillard
davefr
2004-09-20 00:02:17 UTC
Permalink
I used 17 guage because I had a roll of it for fence work. If you go
much thicker it'll be hard to wrap it tight around the handle's
corners.

Coat hanger wire might be too thick. Besides that you'll probably
need about 25+ ft. It's surprising how much wire it takes to wind
about 6".

It also helps if you drill a shallow 1/16" hole on the handle where
you start the winding. That'll keep one end of the wire in place
while you get started.

On Sun, 19 Sep 2004 17:13:02 -0400, "Ray Drouillard"
Post by Ray Drouillard
That sounds like just the ticket. I have some aluminum electric fence
wire, but it would probably be too weak.
Why does it have to be #17 or smaller? It seems to me that coat hanger
wire would work.
Ray
Post by davefr
On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 23:12:33 -0400, "Ray Drouillard"
Take some 17 guage or smaller steel wire and wind in around the handle
from the head to about 6" below the head. Now paint the wire wrap
with epoxy. Once the epoxy is cured wrap it with a couple layers of
friction tape.
Post by Ray Drouillard
I also want to tape something to the handle right next to the head to
keep from splitting the handle when I miss the mark. Any
suggestions?
Post by davefr
Post by Ray Drouillard
I'm thinking of using an old piece of hose.
Ray Drouillard
Jim Elbrecht
2004-09-18 20:46:47 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Way too much. Try wedges [wooden, as Don & Graybrd point out].

If that doesn't last, then buy a new handle. Start looking now to
see who carries the solid plastic [they aren't quite fiberglass-- but
have a softer feel] handles. It will cost you twice what a wooden
handle costs, burt they are rot and split-proof.

-snip-
Post by davefr
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I might be tempted to try something like http://www.rotdoctor.com/ if
I had some lying around, but you could buy a couple mauls for what a
pint of the stuff costs.

Regular epoxy doesn't sound like a good idea at all--- most of it will
remain on the surface to splinter off & add no strength.

Jim
Watcher
2004-09-18 21:09:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
Have you been keeping it coated with a light coat of linseed oil? That
helps keep it from drying and shrinking. If you do add a couple of
wedges, try rubbing it with a light coat of linseed oil to keep the
wood from shrinking more.
(snip)
Stephen Moore
2004-09-18 21:23:07 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
I found a new handle at our local True Value for 6.95, solid hickory
with both the steel and wooden wedges. When I put a new handle on
I'll use my propane torch to heat both the maul and scorch the wood on
the shoulder of the new handle. The maul will seat solidly on the
handle when given a few sharp blows on a concrete floor. The best
wedges I've found are round and are driven in the center of the
handle.
_______________________________________________________________________
SteveM
JMagerl
2004-09-18 23:18:34 UTC
Permalink
where ever they sell handles, they also sell epoxy for gluing the head on
(it's very thin and flows real good). of course if the handle ever breaks
you have to use a blow torch to soften the epoxy and get the broken piece
out.
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Marvin
2004-09-19 02:51:22 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up.
There's
Post by davefr
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may
eventually
Post by davefr
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and
rewedge the
Post by davefr
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose.
I just
Post by davefr
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru
the head
Post by davefr
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul.
Unlike the new
Post by davefr
crap from China.
You already have good advice. I'm not sure yet this is a good
idea, but I'll throw it in for whatever it's worth. The last
time I replaced my handle I smeared it with some clear
silicone sealant that comes in a toothpaste-like tube, and so
far it hasn't showed any signs of loosening. I'll know when I
have to replace it whether I've made a lot of extra work for
myself.
--
Marvin
To reply, burn off fog.
Ray Drouillard
2004-09-19 03:16:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up.
There's
Post by davefr
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may
eventually
Post by davefr
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and
rewedge the
Post by davefr
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose.
I just
Post by davefr
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru
the head
Post by davefr
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul.
Unlike the new
Post by davefr
crap from China.
You already have good advice. I'm not sure yet this is a good
idea, but I'll throw it in for whatever it's worth. The last
time I replaced my handle I smeared it with some clear
silicone sealant that comes in a toothpaste-like tube, and so
far it hasn't showed any signs of loosening. I'll know when I
have to replace it whether I've made a lot of extra work for
myself.
I recently put a new handle on a hammer. I ended up drilling the
remnant of the old one out. It was extra work, but not that bad. Once
you get the metal wedge out, you can go with a bigger drill and clean
most of the wood out.


Ray
Harry K
2004-09-19 14:25:12 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up.
There's
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may
eventually
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and
rewedge the
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose.
I just
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru
the head
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul.
Unlike the new
Post by Marvin
Post by davefr
crap from China.
You already have good advice. I'm not sure yet this is a good
idea, but I'll throw it in for whatever it's worth. The last
time I replaced my handle I smeared it with some clear
silicone sealant that comes in a toothpaste-like tube, and so
far it hasn't showed any signs of loosening. I'll know when I
have to replace it whether I've made a lot of extra work for
myself.
I recently put a new handle on a hammer. I ended up drilling the
remnant of the old one out. It was extra work, but not that bad. Once
you get the metal wedge out, you can go with a bigger drill and clean
most of the wood out.
Ray
That's my method also. Only a quick drill job and a bolt (for a
punch) to drive out the remnants. Much faster than trying to get the
stub out in one piece.

Harry K
davefr
2004-09-19 15:16:01 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for the replies. I decided to splurge and buy a new handle.

The new one came with a metal wedge with stair step ridges and it was
the entire length of the handle's slit. (no more wooden wedge)

After drilling/driving out the old handle, I painted epoxy on the
inside hole of the maul and the stub of the new handle. I set the
head and then buttered up the slit and wedge with more epoxy and drove
the wedge nearly flush with the handles stub. After the epoxy cured,
I trimmed the slight protrusion of the handle stub and wedge so it's
flush with the head.

Next I wrapped 17 guage steel wire around the handle from the head to
about 6-7" below the head and painted it in epoxy. Then I wrapped a
couple layers of friction tape over the epoxy embedded wire. (this
should help protect the handle if you miss the target!!)

Finally, I sprayed painted the maul's head and rubbed linseed oil into
the handle.

I think it's good for another 20 years.
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Watcher
2004-09-19 21:11:50 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
Thanks for the replies. I decided to splurge and buy a new handle.
The new one came with a metal wedge with stair step ridges and it was
the entire length of the handle's slit. (no more wooden wedge)
After drilling/driving out the old handle, I painted epoxy on the
inside hole of the maul and the stub of the new handle. I set the
head and then buttered up the slit and wedge with more epoxy and drove
the wedge nearly flush with the handles stub. After the epoxy cured,
I trimmed the slight protrusion of the handle stub and wedge so it's
flush with the head.
Next I wrapped 17 guage steel wire around the handle from the head to
about 6-7" below the head and painted it in epoxy. Then I wrapped a
couple layers of friction tape over the epoxy embedded wire. (this
should help protect the handle if you miss the target!!)
Finally, I sprayed painted the maul's head and rubbed linseed oil into
the handle.
I think it's good for another 20 years.
Remember to bring it inside when you're not using it. Leaving it out
in the weather will make it dry out fast and shrink the wood. I would
avoid exposing it to rain any more than necessary, too.
(snip)
davefr
2004-09-20 00:04:51 UTC
Permalink
Thanks, good suggestion. I do keep all my garden tools in the barn.
Post by Watcher
Post by davefr
Thanks for the replies. I decided to splurge and buy a new handle.
The new one came with a metal wedge with stair step ridges and it was
the entire length of the handle's slit. (no more wooden wedge)
After drilling/driving out the old handle, I painted epoxy on the
inside hole of the maul and the stub of the new handle. I set the
head and then buttered up the slit and wedge with more epoxy and drove
the wedge nearly flush with the handles stub. After the epoxy cured,
I trimmed the slight protrusion of the handle stub and wedge so it's
flush with the head.
Next I wrapped 17 guage steel wire around the handle from the head to
about 6-7" below the head and painted it in epoxy. Then I wrapped a
couple layers of friction tape over the epoxy embedded wire. (this
should help protect the handle if you miss the target!!)
Finally, I sprayed painted the maul's head and rubbed linseed oil into
the handle.
I think it's good for another 20 years.
Remember to bring it inside when you're not using it. Leaving it out
in the weather will make it dry out fast and shrink the wood. I would
avoid exposing it to rain any more than necessary, too.
(snip)
Woody
2004-09-20 00:10:58 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Yes, the wood shrunk. Put the head in a pail of water overnight and it
will be like new in the morning. No need even for aspirin.


Woody; 95FXDS
Day Brown
2004-09-27 05:04:38 UTC
Permalink
Post by davefr
My favorite splitting maul has a handle that's loostened up. There's
about 1/4" of play in the head and I'm concerned it may eventually
become airborne!!
Will steel wedges snug it up enough or should I try and rewedge the
main wood wedge first? None of the wedges have come loose. I just
think the wood has gradually shrunk.
How about coating the head with epoxy or driving a pin thru the head
and handle as part of a rewedging fix?
I don't want to replace it because it's a great maul. Unlike the new
crap from China.
Got any boys?
When they reach puberty, they begin to try to put as much force as they
can muster on an axe or maul. By the time they're 15, consider a
fiberglass handle. I kept replacing handles before I figured out what
was going on.



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